Friday, June 22, 2007

12 June 2007 - Tuesday - Dili, Timor Leste

The air is fresh up here....

I've been in Dili already for 4 days and already my time has been completely absorbed with the administration - work-plans, forms to fill out, formats to be adhered to... On and on! Necessary, but not my preferred way to spend my time.

So when the chance to get out of Dili to checkout a venue for the upcoming workshops presented itself, I grabbed it.

The road to Daré took us up the steep mountains that surround this little city. At the city limits a huge market selling everything from vegetables and livestock to 2nd hand GAP clothing was bustling with people. Other people were putting up the flags of the political party they support.. Here FREITILIN (the current party in power) holds sway, there it is CNRT (the largest opposition party), over here some PD (the Democratic Party) supporters stake their claim. It's interesting how the same names get recycled all over the world - National Party, Democratic Party, Christian Democrats etc - but can have hugely distinct platforms across the globe.

Leaving the city limits behind, the hubbub dies away and the road although on a steep gradient is at least tarred. It snakes around the mountain cutting a swathe through the trees, doubling back on itself like the coils of some giant python wrapped around the crocodile that is Timor Leste.

Unfortunately we ran out of road before we got to our destination! So in addition to being steep, the road - now barely a dirt track in places - became quite rocky and slippery.. Onwards and upwards, always upwards. Even with 4WD the little station-wagon we were in groaned every foot of the way.

But boy is the air fresh up here! Catching glimpses of the the city dropping below us as we climb ever higher, the horizon stretching on and on, little puffs of smoke from a myriad fires rise up lazily. It's easy to believe you are on top of the world.

We get to one venue, a Catholic retreat, nestled in the mountains that has an atmosphere of such serenity that my ears hurt at the silence. Quiet contemplation would be very possible in this setting... Although they are fully booked until the beginning of September.

So back into the car we get, my kidneys getting a serious workout as we bump and jiggle our way up the rutted track, take a wrong turn and have to retrace our steps... I am seriously beginning to doubt Fidelis' ability to tell time - he had promised that Daré was only 15 minutes away... It's been nearly 2 hours already.

Eventually we get to the second place - well that is a bit of a misdirection... we still had to hike to the venue. Only 5 minutes... Until Fidelis realised that the last time he had done this trip, he had done it on his bike!

Nevertheless the trek through the canopy of trees in the mountains was pure elixir to my soul. The venue, also unavailable for all the dates we required, was a gem. Thatch-roofed cottages and conference hall, up against the slopes of the mountain, surrounded by even higher peaks. A lush mountain side with tall trees and twittering birds. As I sat drinking in the natural beauty, two black and yellow butterflies came dancing around me - large and light like angels - and life was good.. all my cares were far away...

The trek back to the car - uphill this time - was done in silence as we negotiated the 30 degree incline! The journey back was done with a lightened heart to know that East Timor is so much more than Dili!


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